History of Abercrombie & Fitch
Abercrombie & Fitch began as a small shop for serious outdoorsmen. Over more than a century, it turned into a global fashion group.
The brand has lived through growth, bankruptcy, reinvention, and public criticism. It has also shown how a company can change when leaders and values change.
This article looks at how Abercrombie & Fitch started, what shaped it, how it changed, and what we can learn from its story today.
How It All Started
In 1892, David T. Abercrombie opened a small store in New York City. He sold high quality tents, fishing gear, and tools for serious explorers.
The shop first served surveyors, campers, and travelers who needed strong, reliable equipment. It was not a fashion store. It was a technical outfitter for people who spent long days outdoors.
Ezra Fitch, a wealthy lawyer and avid outdoorsman, became a loyal customer. He loved the gear so much that he bought into the company and pushed it to grow.
Early Ups and Downs
After Fitch invested, the business became Abercrombie & Fitch. The company started to sell to a broader audience while keeping its high quality image.
Abercrombie & Fitch introduced a large mail order catalog in the early 1900s. The catalog helped it reach customers across the United States and overseas.
The company later opened a grand flagship store in Manhattan. The store had many floors, a shooting range, and space for lessons in fishing and other outdoor skills.
In these years, Abercrombie & Fitch supplied gear to explorers and famous figures, including pilots and political leaders. This built a strong reputation for expertise and adventure.
Big Moments and Growth
As the decades passed, the company expanded beyond New York. It opened seasonal stores in resort areas and spread its sporting goods to new regions.
Abercrombie & Fitch sold golf clubs, fishing rods, firearms, and clothing. It appealed to wealthy customers who enjoyed hunting, fishing, and travel.
The brand had strong years, but it also faced trouble during the Great Depression. Sales dropped, and the company struggled with high costs and changing consumer habits.
After World War II, the business expanded again. Still, it held on to an elite image and a complex product mix, which later became a problem when competition increased.
From Bankruptcy to Rebirth
By the 1960s and 1970s, profits fell. Inventory stayed high, and the company did not adapt quickly enough to new retail trends.
In 1976, Abercrombie & Fitch filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy. The famous Madison Avenue flagship closed the following year, and the original company shut down.
In 1978, Oshman’s Sporting Goods bought the brand name and mailing list. The name lived on, but the business model shifted as new owners tried to rebuild it.
Repositioning as a Fashion Brand
In 1988, The Limited, Inc. acquired Abercrombie & Fitch. This was a turning point. The company moved from its roots as an outfitter to a focus on casual clothing.
Operations shifted to Ohio, and the new leadership aimed the brand at young adults. The goal was to create a strong lifestyle image, not just sell equipment.
In 1992, Mike Jeffries became CEO. Under his direction, Abercrombie & Fitch turned into a youth-focused fashion brand with bold, sometimes provocative marketing.
The Mall Era and Rapid Expansion
Through the 1990s and early 2000s, the company opened many stores in shopping malls. The stores used dim lighting, loud music, and scent as part of the experience.
Abercrombie & Fitch sold logo-heavy shirts, denim, and casual wear. The style targeted a narrow idea of “cool” and “popular” youth culture.
The company went public on the New York Stock Exchange in 1996. It spun off from The Limited in 1998 and launched abercrombie kids that same year.
Building a Brand Family
In 2000, the company launched Hollister Co. This new brand focused on teens and used a relaxed, surf-inspired theme.
Later, Abercrombie & Fitch added other concepts, including Ruehl No.925 for post-college customers and Gilly Hicks for intimates and activewear.
It also expanded overseas, opening stores in Europe and the Asia–Pacific region. The company became a global fashion group with several related brands.
Controversy and Decline
Despite strong growth, the brand’s image created problems. Marketing often presented a very narrow view of beauty and style.
The company faced lawsuits and criticism over hiring practices, religious dress, and limited sizing. Many people saw the brand as exclusionary.
At the same time, new competitors and the Great Recession hit sales. The company was slow to change its prices, styles, and store experience.
Leadership Change and Reinvention
Mike Jeffries stepped down as CEO in 2014 after years of pressure and falling sales. This opened the door for a new direction.
Fran Horowitz joined the company and became CEO in 2017. Under her leadership, Abercrombie & Fitch started a full transformation.
The company moved toward more inclusive sizing, modern fits, and a warmer in-store experience. It reduced logo-heavy products and focused on versatile clothing for daily life.
How the Brand Changed Over Time
Abercrombie & Fitch started as an outfitter for serious explorers. Over time, it became known for mall stores and youth fashion.
The company’s early identity centered on quality gear and expertise. Later, its image was built on a narrow idea of lifestyle and appearance.
Today, the brand focuses more on comfort, fit, and inclusivity. It aims to serve young adults rather than only teenagers.
Digital and Omnichannel Growth
In recent years, digital sales became a major part of the business. Abercrombie & Fitch invested heavily in websites, apps, and online marketing.
The company reached more than one billion dollars in annual digital sales by the late 2010s. This shift helped it reach customers beyond physical stores.
It also built an omnichannel model. Customers can browse, buy, and return items across online and in-store channels with more ease.
Ongoing Reputation Challenges
Even as the company changed, its past stayed in the public eye. A 2022 documentary looked at the earlier era of exclusion and harsh marketing.
In 2024, former CEO Mike Jeffries faced federal charges related to his personal conduct years after leaving the company. Abercrombie & Fitch stated that he left in 2014 and that the alleged actions conflict with the firm’s values.
These stories show how long a brand’s history can shape public opinion, even after leadership and strategy change.
Where Abercrombie & Fitch Stands Today
Today, Abercrombie & Fitch Co. is a global apparel group. It includes Abercrombie & Fitch, abercrombie kids, Hollister, Gilly Hicks, and Social Tourist.
The company is based in New Albany, Ohio and operates hundreds of stores worldwide. It also employs many people in its offices and stores.
The main Abercrombie & Fitch brand now targets adults in their twenties to forties. Hollister continues to focus on teenagers, while the other brands serve specific niches.
Strategy and Future Direction
The company has set out a long term plan for growth. It focuses on product innovation, digital strength, and clear brand positioning.
Recent years have brought strong sales growth and record results. At the same time, the company faces normal retail risks such as tariffs and economic slowdowns.
The leadership team continues to push an inclusive, modern image. They aim to keep past problems from repeating while using the brand’s global reach to grow.
Timeline of Abercrombie & Fitch
This timeline highlights major events in the history of Abercrombie & Fitch. It follows the journey from a small New York shop to a global fashion group.
Each date marks a turning point in ownership, strategy, or brand image. Together, they show how the company has changed over more than a century.
The timeline includes key product launches, leadership changes, and moments of crisis and renewal.
Abercrombie & Fitch
1892
David T. Abercrombie opens a small store in New York City, selling high quality outdoor gear to surveyors and explorers.
Early 1900s
Ezra Fitch invests in the business and becomes a partner after being a loyal customer who loves the products.
1904
The company takes the name Abercrombie & Fitch and starts to serve a wider group of customers, while keeping its premium image.
1909
Abercrombie & Fitch releases a large mail order catalog that reaches customers across the United States and overseas.
1910
The company begins selling women’s clothing, expanding beyond menswear and equipment into a broader clothing offer.
1917
A grand twelve story flagship store opens on Madison Avenue in Manhattan, with many floors devoted to different sports and activities.
1920s
Abercrombie & Fitch outfits explorers and famous figures, including aviators and political leaders, and gains a reputation for expertise.
1928
Ezra Fitch retires and new leadership takes over, continuing expansion in sporting goods and clothing.
1930s
The Great Depression hurts sales and profits, but the company survives and later resumes paying dividends as conditions improve.
1940s
During World War II, Abercrombie & Fitch supplies uniforms and equipment to members of the United States armed forces.
1950s–1960s
The company opens more stores and resort locations and maintains its high end sporting goods image, but costs rise and profits weaken.
1976–1977
Abercrombie & Fitch files for Chapter 11 bankruptcy and closes its famous Madison Avenue flagship along with remaining operations.
1978
Oshman’s Sporting Goods buys the Abercrombie & Fitch name and mailing list and revives the brand as a smaller retail and catalog business.
1988
The Limited, Inc. acquires Abercrombie & Fitch, moves operations to Ohio, and begins to reposition it as a casual clothing brand.
1992
Mike Jeffries becomes CEO and reshapes Abercrombie & Fitch into a youth focused lifestyle brand with strong mall presence.
1996–1998
The company lists on the New York Stock Exchange, spins off from The Limited, and launches abercrombie kids for younger customers.
2000
Hollister Co. launches as a teen brand with a surf inspired theme and becomes a major part of the company’s growth.
2000s
Abercrombie & Fitch expands internationally, adds new brands such as Ruehl No.925 and Gilly Hicks, and grows its global store base.
Late 2000s–Early 2010s
The company faces criticism, lawsuits, and sliding sales due to its narrow image, economic pressures, and rising competition.
2014
Mike Jeffries steps down as CEO after years of pressure over performance and brand reputation.
2017
Fran Horowitz becomes CEO and leads a major transformation focused on inclusivity, modern product design, and a better store experience.
2018
Abercrombie & Fitch Co. passes one billion dollars in annual digital sales, marking a strong shift toward e commerce.
2022
A documentary revisits the brand’s past problems, while the company pushes forward with its new strategy and global expansion.
2023–2024
The company reports strong sales growth and record results as its modern, inclusive positioning gains traction with customers.
2024–2025
Former CEO Mike Jeffries faces federal charges related to past personal conduct, while the company continues to stress its current values and direction.
Key Facts About Abercrombie & Fitch
Abercrombie & Fitch Co. began in 1892 in New York City and later moved its headquarters to New Albany, Ohio.
Today, the group includes the brands Abercrombie & Fitch, abercrombie kids, Hollister, Gilly Hicks, and Social Tourist.
The company is a global specialty retailer that sells clothing, accessories, personal care products, and footwear.
Abercrombie & Fitch Co. trades on the New York Stock Exchange under the symbol ANF. It is part of a major mid cap stock index.
The main Abercrombie & Fitch brand now targets adults, while Hollister focuses on teens and abercrombie kids serves children.
In recent years, the company has reported strong revenue growth and a large share of sales from digital channels.
The business has also faced public criticism and legal actions in past decades over its earlier image and practices.
Lessons from Abercrombie & Fitch
One clear lesson is that a strong brand image can help in the short term but hurt in the long term if it is too narrow. A brand built around a small idea of who “belongs” can easily lose trust.
Another lesson is that social values change, and companies must change with them. Abercrombie & Fitch waited too long to adjust its sizing, prices, and marketing to match new expectations.
The story also shows how leadership culture shapes a company. Different CEOs brought very different approaches, which led to both growth and serious problems.
Reinvention takes more than fresh ads or new store designs. Abercrombie & Fitch had to adjust products, fits, store layouts, and internal systems to make its new direction real.
A multi brand structure can soften the impact of change in any one part of the business. As one brand slows, another can help support overall results.
Digital strength is now central to retail. Abercrombie & Fitch’s growth in online sales and omnichannel options has been crucial to its recent recovery.
Finally, the company’s story shows that history matters. Even when a business has changed, old choices can still shape how people see it for many years.
Sources: Abercrombie & Fitch Co., Encyclopaedia Britannica, Encyclopedia.com, Wikipedia, Reuters, Business Insider, U.S. Department of Justice